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The History of Fair Isle Bird Observatory

The importance of Fair Isle in the migration of birds was recognised well before the establishment of the bird observatory. Indeed, Eagle Clarke, a curator at the Royal Scottish Museum, visited Fair Isle for the first time in 1905 to study bird migration.  His studies involved visiting many islands within the British Isles and he selected Fair Isle as an island of potential importance because of its location, which appeared to lie in the flight line of many migrants.  His predictions were proved to be correct and Fair Isle was established as a premier birdwatching site. Eagle Clarke’s visits to study migration continued until 1911. In that time he brought many other keen ornithologists to help him with his studies and helped many islanders, who were already knowledgeable about the birds on their island, to improve their identification skills with the aid of field guides and binoculars and, of course, guns!

During periods when there were no ornithologists on the island, Eagle Clarke  would appoint an islander as ‘official observer’. The Duchess of Bedford was another keen ornithologist who helped Eagle Clarke  with his study, whilst living at Pund (now a derelict crofthouse), which she renamed Ortolan Cottage during her stay. After the First World War, Eagle Clarke  and his helpers continued to visit the Island, and with the help of the Islanders, built up a catalogue of species recorded on the Isle.  It became increasingly evident that Fair Isle was a prime location for seeing rare and unusual species and consequently, increasing numbers of ornithologists travelled to the Island to witness this for themselves.  One of these ornithologists was George Waterston, who visited Fair Isle for the first time as a young man in his twenties in 1935. 

George fell in love with Fair Isle and started to make plans to open a bird observatory on the isle.  Financial hurdles and the Second World War put a halt to his plans for a few years, but during his time in a prisoner of war camp from 1941 until his repatriation in 1943, he put together detailed plans for an observatory.  On his release George began to put these plans into action, gaining support from other prominent ornithologists along the way.  In 1947 George Waterston purchased the island and the following year Fair Isle Bird Observatory was established in the old naval huts near North Haven and opened to visitors for the first time on 28th August 1948.

In the early days the observatory was run by a Director (the first being Kenneth Williamson), his wife and a cook/maid, with many of the daily chores (such as washing up) carried out on a rota basis by staff and visitors alike.  Accommodation was basic, with bedrooms for about 12 visitors in one naval hut and the dining and living room in another.  In 1954 George Waterston handed Fair Isle over to the National Trust for Scotland but Fair Isle Bird Observatory Trust retained ownership of the bird observatory and small pockets of land associated with it. 

After twenty years of use as accommodation for visitors and staff, the old naval huts were past their best and in 1969 a new building was built just south west of the huts in Maver’s Cup.  This building remains today (having been structurally reinforced, extended and modernised in 1989) and provides accommodation for approximately 400 visitors a year.  Staffing levels have increased greatly over that time, with the result that the old hostel system of visitors helping with washing up has been replaced by an efficiently run guesthouse/hotel where visitors can come simply to relax and enjoy their stay.

Fair Isle attractions

The seabird colonies during the breeding season are a spectacle not to be missed.  Visitors can sit at a safe distance watching hundreds of thousands of noisy Guillemots and Razorbills, all jostling for a place on a cliff, or gaze in awe as hundreds of Puffins perched on a cliff top, rise in one mass to avoid the swooping Great Skua looking for a meal.  Seabird season is a photographers dream as close up shots of many species can be achieved within easy distance from the observatory.  However, despite the hustle and bustle of the spectacular seabird covered cliffs, there is no doubt that the main attraction of Fair Isle to a birder, is migration and the knowledge that on this small peaceful island you are never quite sure what will turn up next.

Fair Isle boasts an impressive bird list, totalling no fewer than 362 species accepted onto Category A of the BOU list.  Included in this total are no less than 22 species which, when found, were new to Britain and Ireland and, although currently sitting in Category D, the only record of Asian Brown Flycatcher.  In a Scottish context, Fair Isle can lay claim to a truly mouth-watering list which is streets ahead of any other site; over 35 firsts for Scotland and the only place in Scotland to have received Blackburnian Warbler, Savannah Sparrow (twice), White-crowned Sparrow, Pallas’ Reed Bunting, Crested Lark, Bimaculated Lark, Calandra Lark (three times!), American Kestrel, Siberian Rubythroat (twice) and Blyth’s Pipit (twice). Not forgetting the amazing TWO firsts for the Western Palaearctic recorded in 2004 - Rufous-tailed Robin and Chestnut-eared Bunting!

It is also by far still the best place in Britain (even in this day and age of increased observer coverage and field identification skills) to see four species which have become know as the ‘Fair Isle Specials’; Pechora Pipit, Lanceolated Warbler, Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler and Yellow-breasted Bunting. These ‘specials’ are all virtually annual, often in multiple numbers (for example, four Pallas’s Grasshopper Warblers in 1998 and five Lanceolated Warblers in 1998 and 2000), that ensures a visitor-packed Observatory each autumn.  Four further species should be added to this list, in light of recent trends of occurrence; Great Snipe, Citrine Wagtail, Paddyfield Warbler and Blyth’s Reed Warbler are all much sought after birds which have become almost expected annual vagrants to Fair Isle.

Traditionally, to have the best chance of seeing the most number of the Fair Isle ‘specials’, then a holiday on Fair Isle during the last two weeks of September is your best bet.  However, any time from early September to mid-October is liable to produce some fantastic autumn birding with large falls of common warblers, pipits, Robins, thrushes and finches, undoubtedly holding a few less common birds such as Richard’s Pipit, Barred Warbler, Yellow-browed Warbler, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Greater Short-toed Lark and one or two of the classic rarities and who knows what else!

Whilst autumn may be the best time for the ‘specials’, spring from mid-May to early June has perhaps more all-round enjoyment with nicer weather, a cacophony of breeding seabirds and some spectacular falls of common migrants in breeding dress.  Spring too, has its fair share of less common migrants (Bluethroats, Red-backed Shrikes, Wryneck, Icterine Warbler, Common Rosefinch, Greater Short-toed Lark, Ortolan Bunting), and true rarities; Red-throated Pipit, Thrush Nightingale, Subalpine Warbler and Rustic Bunting are all annual, whilst the list of vagrants is extensive. 

All three Scottish records of Calandra Lark, plus the first and third spring records in Britain of Myrtle Warbler and other blockers such as Hermit Thrush, Cretzschmar’s Bunting, Bimaculated Lark, American Kestrel, and Pallid Harrier have all been spring occurrences on Fair Isle.  However, birds can, and do, turn up at any time of the year.  For example, April has produced Sandhill Crane, Calandra Lark, Dartford Warbler and Song Sparrow, whilst Pacific Golden Plover, Lesser Kestrel and Eastern Olivaceous Warbler have all turned up in late spring.  November rarities include Crested Lark, Little Bustard, Little Swift, Blyth’s Pipit, Dusky Warbler and Pine Bunting, whilst the winter months have seen Harlequin Duck, Gyr Falcon and Whites Thrush. In short, a visit to Fair Isle can be rewarding at any time of the year.

References and recommended reading:

Dymond, J.N. 1991 The Birds of Fair Isle. Edinburgh
Fair Isle Bird Observatory Annual Reports
. 1948 – present.
Riddington, R.
2000. Fair Isle.  Dutch Birding 22: 1-12.
Thom. V.M.
1989. ‘Fair Isle’ an Island Saga. Edinburgh

Text and photographs Copyright © 2010 Fair Isle Bird Observatory unless otherwise stated.
 

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Last modified: 05 October, 2010   Further information about Fair Isle at: www.fairisle.org.uk